小資必敗的勃艮第產區Marsannay

掌管勃艮第金丘區北邊大門的馬桑內，是全勃艮第唯一能生產三個酒色的村莊級法定產區，擁有多樣化且性價比極高的酒款，卻因為曾經誤判局勢致使其知名度遠低於其他夜丘名村，如今馬桑內正急起直追、打算彎道超車，或許再過不久，這夜丘區最後的小資也將成為絕響…

Marsannay, in charge of the northern gate of the Côte d’Or in Burgundy, is the only village-level appellation that can produce red, white and rosé. The wine from Marsannay has diverse palate and good value, but irrelevant low brand awareness because of a misjudgment in the early 20^th century. The appellation is rousing itself to catch up and intends to overtake on a curve. Perhaps in a short while, the last petty bourgeoisie of Côte de Nuits will become an extinct one…

鮮為人知的過去

現今的Marsannay法定產區覆蓋了Chenove, Marsannay-la-Côte 與 Couchey三個村莊的葡萄園，這些區域在十九世紀以前還是屬於第戎丘(Côte Dijonnais)的範圍。十八世紀中產階級興起後，第戎大都會區的葡萄酒需求量日益增加，最靠近都市的本區葡萄園更是首當其衝、供不應求，於是從十九世紀初開始，酒農紛紛將產量較少的Pinot Noir與Chardonnay拔除，改種品質一般但產量穩定的Gamay與Aligoté葡萄。

直至二十世紀初本區都還是酒饕們眼中的瑰寶，從來不存在求售的困擾，也因此在1930年當勃艮第著手規劃法定產區制度時，相較於希望藉由產區規範以取得名聲，晉而提升銷售的其他村莊，以Marsannay村為首的當地酒農則背道而馳，主動退出法定產區申請。

Untold history

The Marsannay appellation covers the vineyards from Chenove, Marsannay-la-Côte to Couchey, which belonged to the Côte Dijonnais a few centuries ago. After the rise of the middle class in the 18^th century, the demand for wine in the metropolitan area of Dijon increased day by day, the vineyards in this area closest to the city were the first to bear the brunt, and the supply was never sufficient. Therefore, from the beginning of the 19^th century, wine growers began to remove the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, whose yields are far less than those from Gamay and Aligoté. Until the beginning of the 20^th century, the wine from the region was still cherished by the daily-drink customers and with no bother of selling. As a result, when Burgundy get started to the creation of AOC system in 1930, compared to other wine growing area who are risk in reputation and were expecting the new system of bring more consumption, the region leading by Marsannay-la-Côte Village went against the grain and voluntarily withdrew from the application.

塞翁失馬焉知非福

A blessing in disguise

While life has its up and down! With the economic recovery after the World War II, people tend to pursuit of high-priced wines from a single village or even a single plot of ultimate quality rather than a easy-drink daily table wine. This change have forced local wine growers to replant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in vineyards that have been occupied by Gamay and Aligoté for more than a century, And got their own AOC as Masannay in 1987. It is precisely because of this application delayed for half a century that Masannay has a clearer positioning of its production area. Considering the richness and diversity of soil structure, they decided to apply for the authorization of producing red, white and rosé wine, and successfully obtained the qualification. The Marsannay AOC become the only “village level" rosé wine in Burgundy.

地勢起伏酒風多變

Marsannay法定產區偏向涼爽的海洋型氣候，但也受到地中海型與大陸型氣候交互影響。年均雨量為750mm，平均氣溫達到10.5°C，但由於Morvan山脈與勃艮第高原矗立在葡萄園西側，阻擋了潮濕而寒冷的西風，因此葡萄園相對乾爽且溫暖。

這個寬度不超過2公里的狹長產區共有四個背斜谷通過，葡萄園座落於海拔255至390公尺的山腳處，因斷層形成的地勢起伏也讓本產區土壤結構極具多樣性，較肥沃的沖積扇區有碎石、砂質土、淤泥與黏土等，地塊較高的山坡則以結構緊實的石灰石與侏羅紀的泥灰岩為主。前者酒風以濃郁果及柔順酒體著稱，後者則展現出強勁的單寧與精實的酒體。

Changeable wine style

The AOC of Marsannay tends to have a cool oceanic climate, and is influenced by the interaction of Mediterranean and continental climates. The average annual rainfall is 750mm, and the average temperature reaches 10.5°C. However, because the Morvan Mountains and the Burgundy Plateau are located on the west side of the vineyard, blocking the wet and cold westerly wind, the vineyard is relatively dry and warm.

There are four anticline valleys passing through this narrow and long production area with a width of no more than 2 kilometers. The vineyards are located at the foot of the mountain at an altitude of 255 to 390 meters. The more fertile alluvial sector has gravel, sand, silt and clay, etc., and the hillside with higher ground damage is mainly composed of compact limestone and Jurassic period marl. The former wine style is known for its rich fruit and smooth body, while the latter shows strong tannins and lean body.

升級計劃

取得法定產區資格的這三十年年間，Marsannay一直希望能縮減與其他產區名聲的差距，因此產區公會便著手進行一級葡萄園的創立與劃定計劃。這項高難度計劃在Marsannay產區公會的主導下，花了兩年時間，先是整合當地主要生產酒莊與品飲專家們的意見，從那些名聲優異的地塊中，擬制初選名單，再騁請相關領域的專家共同堪察，在詳細分析各地塊的風土結構與產酒品質後，決定將28片位於邊坡，與其他夜丘區一級園有著相似土質結構的地籍地塊，重組為14個風土地塊¹，是為一級園的候選者，並於2014年向國家法定產區管理局(INAO)遞交了這份高達50頁的申請書。

如今國家法定產區管理局正在處理這一正式請求，只是審核時間一如既往地漫長，以上一個提交大批量一級園申請的法定產區「普依芙賽」為例，從2010年提交申請到2020年正式通過，也過了整整十個年頭。古人云：「不經一番寒徹骨，焉得梅花撲鼻香。」相信在不久的將來，Marsannay也能綻放出它獨特氣息的美麗花朵。

Upgrade plan

Upgrade plan

During the 30 years of obtaining the qualification of Appellation, Marsannay has always hoped to narrow the gap with other village appellations in Côte de Nuits, so the Defense and Management Organization (ODG) of the AOC Marsannay has embarked on a plan to create and delineate Premier Cru vineyards. This difficult plan took two years under the leadership of the Marsannay ODG. Firstly, it integrated the opinions of the main local wineries and tasting experts, and drafted a preliminary selection from those famous plots. After a detailed analysis of the terroir structure and wine quality of each plot, it was decided to select 28 lieu-dits that are located in the steep slope and have a similar soil structure to other Premier Crus in Côte de Nuits. These vineyards reorganized into 14 Climats, is a candidate for the Premiers Crus, and finally submitted the application of more than 50 pages to INAO in 2014.

INAO works on the recognition of these Premiers Crus of the appellation, but the review time is as long as ever. Take the AOC “Pouilly-Fuissé” for exemple, they applied for recognition as a “Premier Cru” in 2010. Not until 2020, this famous appellation acquired eventually their first batch of Premier Cru. As the proverb said: “No pain no gain." It is believed that in the near future, Marsannay will also be able to bloom its unique beautiful flowers.

註 1：這14塊準一級園都是在過往三十年間即享有一定名聲的優異地塊，其所產酒質也非甜美易飲的早熟型酒款，而且能代表Marsannay柔順中帶有個性且絕對具有陳年潛力的酒款。其完整名單如下：

These 14 prospective Premier Crus Climats are excellent plots that have a certain reputation in the past 30 years. The quality of wine produced by these vineyards are not light and easy-drinking precocious wine, but represent Marsannay’s suppleness, personality and uniqueness. They are definately wine with aging potential. The complete list is as follows:

Chenôve村

• Le Clos du Roy ;

Marsannay-la-Côte村

• Les Longeroies (包含三個地籍地塊Bas des Longeroies, Dessus des Longeroies 與Monchenevoy);
• En La Montagne ;
• Les Echezots (地籍地塊名為Les Echezeaux);
• La Charme aux Prêtres (地籍地塊名為Les Rosey);
• Les Boivin;
• Les Grasses Têtes ;
• Clos du Jeu;
• Les Favières;
• Saint-Jacques, (該地籍地塊中僅部份被劃入);

Couchey村

• Au Champ Salomon (包含二個地籍地塊En Clémongeot 與 Au Champ Salomon);
• Aux Genelières (包含八個地籍地塊En Combereau, En la Malcuite, Aux Grands Bandeaux, Au Ronsoy, Au Champs St-Étienne, Aux Genelières, En Charrière 與 La Quenicière);
• Le Clos (三個地籍地塊的局部將被劃入Es Clos, Le Village 與 Le Dixme);
• Champs Perdrix (包含五個地籍地塊Au Quartier, La Plantelle, Le Désert, Le Moisereau 與Champs-Perdrix).